• Subscribe to
    Lloyd’s Blog via RSS.
  • Check out TheShelterBlog.com
  • Tools for the
    Half-Acre Homestead


I'd just about quit surfing over the last six months. Shoulder and rib injuries. Once I went out and could hardly get from prone to standing position. Depressing. I thought maybe I'd reached the point where I just couldn't ride a surfboard (standing) any more. Last week, a few days back from chilly weather in Minnesota, it happened to be a sunny blue-sky, warm California day, and I went out. There was a nice little swell in the easy-wave spot where I surf mostly these days. Suddenly the fog came in and pretty soon you couldn't see shore. There was only one other guy out, and we looked at each other like, hey we're all alone out here.
   Well, I got some rides and was thrilled.  I was rusty and getting up was awkward, but once I got into green water, I was stylin'. Well — stylin' for an old guy.  I'm — as they say —stoked.


Kelsi-in-Florida-by-way-of-the-Pac-NW said...

Lloyd - have you ever tried surfing on an airmat? George Greenough style? They are amazing, like bodysurfing on a cloud of air. If you want to give your shoulders and ribs a little break, you absolutely should get one. (Check out Fourth Gear Flyers)...all you need is a pair of fins. It's also nice that in riding one, you can alternate between paddling and kicking. Full body workout!
On a seperate note, personal thanks to you and your publications for providing me in-part with the inspiration to go for my Masters (in Sustainable Design/Landscape Architecture) - the aesthetic and innovation of the people you feature has pushed me to go for it. I couldn't be more stoked.

Lloyd Kahn said...

Kelsi, Yes, I recently got a Greenough mat and some DaFins, but haven't gotten around to trying them out yet.

pranaglider said...

Lloyd you definitely need to try the mat!

Post a Comment