Sunset arrival in Varna on the Black Sea Coast. Really not negotiating the Cyrillic alphabet via our way into town, we somehow found our campsite, set up a tent for the night and explained our plans to hitch-hike down the coast. We were headed in search of the few remaining beaches that had escaped tourist development, 'wild' beaches where we'd heard people travel from around Bulgaria to camp for the summer, protesting against potential hotel concrete. We shared tattered maps marked with biro dots and a few scribbled names along remote sections of the coastline, deciding that our first stop would be Karadere, 2 hours South.…
…One naked week extended into 3, living in sand under Pine trees, surrounded by people inherently putting everybody else before themselves. There was no sense of competition or 'mine', not a towel-guarded sun bed in sight. We were the only English on a beach of Bulgarians- families, young students from Sofia, dogs, cats- and found ourselves surrounded by kindness. Each evening a family invited us to eat with them, we returned to our tent to find bags of cheese, onions, tomatoes hanging in the tree we were camped under. And a whopping great watermelon by the door. On the final morning I clambered down to the sand to watch the sunrise and eat some watermelon. I looked up and there, finally, swimming across the calm bay, the 2 dolphins that we had spent the weeks waiting to see. On the final evening of our trip we sat above the beach as the sun set, wondering what we could scrape together to eat with the little food we had left. We got a tap on our shoulders and turned to see someone we'd not met before, handing us a plate of two vegetable kebabs.