I was a water person in earlier years, starting at 4 years of age when I fell in a lake and while underwater until my dad fished me out, enjoyed the experience. In high school I swam competitively and one day after a swimming meet at the great Fleishacker salt water pool out at Ocean Beach in San Francisco, a swimmer named Jim Fisher and I went out across the Great Highway to swim in the ocean. I couldn't believe it. The waves, blue water, invigoration. I was hooked.
Had my first surfboard ride at age 18, then changed my major at Stanford so I was through every Thursday at noon and able to head to Santa Cruz until Sunday night. I was a lifeguard, taught swimming, and then somehow over the years, drifted away from the beach in comparison with my serious surfer friends.
WELL -- I've come to this small island of Kauai to get back in the water. Today I was in the ocean 3 times -- a little bodysurfing, mostly swimming (the last time in the rain tonight) and in a fresh water pool 3 times..
A barista coffee shop on wheels with wonderful coffee, muffins, and vibes. A hostel on the beach with rates (in this expensive resort area -- Kapaa --) of $40/$80 per night for shared/solo rooms. A guy in the country with about 300 beautiful roosters and tangerine, grapefruit, macadamia and lychee nut trees. A day of clouds and sun and clouds and rain. This island like a large boat in the Pacific Ocean. A Mexican restaurant that feels like you're in Mexico with delicious food and 3 TVs with Mexican soccer games.
I'll try to get around to writing it up (with photos) before long…