"…Asked about the best wave of the day, Kaeo said it belonged to “the guy having the most fun.” As for his own best wave Wednesday, he described it as “huge.”
'Maybe, like, bigger than this,' he said, pointing to the tops of the nearby palm trees. 'Bigger than this whole tree line. Yea, bigger than that. Out on the third reef, King’s. And just giant. I don’t know how big. I was too concentrated on how to surf it.'
Wolcott, Kaeo’s long-time surfing buddy, didn’t downplay his friend’s catch one bit.
'This guy stepped up to a record-breaker,' he said of Kaeo. 'Between 80 and 100 feet, guarantee … A monster. A mile or three-quarter mile ride. It was sick. Sick.'
And Wolcott didn’t let it go there. He made sure it was clear just how ridiculous Kaeo’s ride was.
'It was life and death, you could say. It was borderline,' he said. 'You fall on that you’re in big trouble.'…"
Chris D’Angelo - The Garden Island: http://bit.ly/1C9Grds