It's been 80 degrees at the beach. Good solid swell. Malibu pier this morning a dream, not hideously crowded, everyone getting waves, half the surfers not wearing wetsuits, some v. fancy longboard strutting. I got my first wave at Malibu Colony 58 years ago, and although it's super crowded now, there are moments like today, sweet spots in time, hallelujah. Air has been smog-free.
Went for a swim this morning, out to the end of the Malibu pier and back. Water in 60s, clear, green, looks clean. Ah-ah-ah! Wish I'd brought my air mat and fins. This has been a great couple of days.