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On the Road Dispatch from Portland

I'm off on a month-long trip shooting photos for our next major book, Builders of the Northwest Coast. I've been on the road 5 days now and it's been magical — sorry, no other word to describe what's been happening. Driving over to a somewhat remote mountain hot springs center to talk to Sun Ray Kelley, things started getting good as I got into snow. When I got to the resort I found, to my complete surprise, an unbelievable masterpiece of a building. I spent 2 days photographing it and talking to Sun Ray, a most remarkable man.

Then I drove over to the Mendocino coast to hang out with my friend Louie for a few days. I lucked into some great music Saturday night at Bones Bar-B-Q & Blues club in Gualala. Four young locals from Ft. Bragg, blue grass and blues and it was one of those nights. Pretty soon every single person in the room (20-25 people maybe), including waitresses and burly bouncer, was dancing. Total band/audience rapport.

I took off yesterday, Monday, drove over to Clearlake where 1000s of seagulls were spectacularly present in the blue waters, then got on Highway 5 north. I went into the town of Mt. Shasta and lucked out in the body department. I took a sauna and then had some extraordinary bodywork done by Michael Bueno at the newly-opened Sacred Mountain Retreat. He unlocked all kinds of tensions and helped with my sports injuries. I've had tons of body work, and this was extraordinary. Is this guy good for athletes!

Sacred Mountain Spa, Mt. Shasta City, CA

Had a hamburger and vanilla malt at an all-night diner in Medford, Oregon around midnight. Good! Classic burger. Malt made with real ice cream, and a lot left in the stainless shake container placed on the counter. Good burger and shake: American masterpiece.

I slept in my truck (20 degrees), warm down bag, for 3-4 hours last night. Had great breakfast in Eugene at Zenon cafe. Fresh-made chicken-apple sausage.

I'm sitting in a very cool coffee shop, the Stumptown Roastery, in Portland. Is this a great town! I decided I'd try to drive into town and scope it out cold and it worked. Found a good street with bunch of cafes, asked someone and got directed to this very homey part of town. The neighborhood with cute charming frame houses, with big back yards, not all gussied up like in San Francisco. Nice people everywhere. I'm going to talk to a bunch of art students from Reed college tomorrow, then head up to Victoria.

Builders of the Northwest Coast, Mongolian Cloud Houses (Yurt Book), etc.

I guess these are hybrid blogs. I just can't seem to get into daily or weekly or whatever regularity. Too much else to do. My last blog was 6 weeks ago. I'm leaving on a trip to Vancouver Island tomorrow, shooting photos for our next book Builders of the Northwest Coast. I'm excited about going back up there. I'm stopping off at Harbin Hot Springs (near Clear Lake, Calif.) on the way north to interview awesome builder Sun Ray Kelley, who's building a temple at Harbin. I'll of course jump into the hot springs, then head over to Pt. Arena, my favorite town on the Mendocino coast, where I'm looking for land. Then on up to Portland where I'll talk to a bunch of art students about building and the '60s, then on to Victoria, where I'll stay on my friend Godfrey's sailboat for a few days, then over to Tofino on the west side of the island. I'll go north by boat to see builder Lloyd House, as well as a floating village in a secluded cove. From there back to Denman and Hornby islands on the east side of V.I., to work with architect Michael McNamara and shoot mucho pix. I'll try to send off a blog or two from the road.

Yurt Book Finished

(Well, just about.) What started out to be a simple reprint of a charming '70s book on how to build a 13' yurt out of bamboo and canvas got more complex as we started in on it. We have a lot of building stuff on our website from Home Work and Shelter, and the number one subject in terms of hits is "yurts." So with all this interest we teamed up with author-illustrator Dan Kuehn to update and improve the book. What drew us to the book in the first place were Dan's 60s-style illustrations — charming and easy to follow. Like Peter Aschwanden's drawings in Keeping Your VW Alive — The Idiots Guide.

What's unique (and hardly cost-effective) in our book production modus operandi is that we start putting pages together way before we have a complete manuscript. Publishers reading this will recognize the high cost of operating this way. but what we get is if-you'll-excuse-the-expression, an organic book, one that's alive, being created on the spot. We're writing text, doing drawings, gathering photos while the book is in production.

At the very last minute we got a bunch of photos of gers in Mongolia and Mongolian cowboys from Jim Macey. Jim has been to Mongolia numerous times in recent years on geological expeditions. He also brought four Mongolian cowboys to Elko, Nevada to show them American cowboys and their techniques and equipment.

The ger of a wealthy businessman set up on a grassy plain during the national horse races eight miles from Mongolia's capital city of Ulaanbataar

While engaged in geologic field reconnaissance of an unmapped earth quake fault in north western Mongolia, Jim met a local family camped for the summer in their ger with their herds of sheep and goats.

Setting up a ger in northern Mongolia in 1994

The book has just been proofread and we expect it to be printed by April. We think it looks so great we're going to send a copy to sales reps. This always seems to happen. We can never get material on a book together before we actually get the book done.

Black Chanterelle Mushrooms

They are hard to find, almost invisible in the woods — and delicious. My friend Louie and I found some while tramping around in the woods in Mendocino county, that night made bruschetta topped with sauteed chanterelles, along with Louie's homemade zinfandel, while a storm raged outside Louie's snug little house in the woods.

The House That Kahn Built

The House That Kahn Built:
Back-to-the-land believer promotes doing it yourself
Rick Polito

LLOYD KAHN sits downstairs from the octagonal tower sheathed in the redwood shingles he harvested at low tide from the nearby Bolinas beaches, and he slaps a well-calloused palm on the polished wood table.

"This is built from old floor joists," he declares, giving the table another solid knock.

In Kahn's world, do-it-yourself is almost beside the point. For the 70-year-old publisher and unapologetic old hippie, the idea is really to do it for yourself. Thirty-three years after he published "Shelter," a textbook and tour of hand-built architecture that crested a counterculture back-to-the-land movement, Kahn is back on subject.

Lloyd Kahn built his house in Bolinas. He says he worked with carpenters and taught himself the trade.
(IJ photo/Frankie Frost)

He'd spent decades publishing fitness books, including a best seller on stretching, but his newest book, "Home Work: Handbuilt Shelter," is clearly a sequel to "Shelter." It reads like an autobiography. Kahn has seen a lot and likes to talk about all of it. "It all came out of my own life," he says. "You can ride shotgun with me."

But mostly he wants people to think about where and how they live, and why shaping it, building it and making it theirs is so important. "It's going to be a really difficult thing to do," Kahn says of building a home. "Harder than anything else you'll ever do." And then he adds, "but it's a wonderful process."

"Shelter" wasn't just a guide to that process; it was a guide to an era. Kahn is quick to defend 1960s - "You don't hear the success stories of the '60s," he'll say -"and many of the buildings in "Shelter," and "Home Work" could be zoned as hippie houses. These are homes for people who wanted to "create their own life," and alternative building in the '60s and early '70s was an expression of that.

"Building your own house was just part of everything else," he says.

It certainly was for Kahn. A native San Franciscan, Kahn was older than the baby boomers who launched those multiple revolutions, but he recognized the movement when it happened and left a job in insurance in 1965 for a "one of those 'On the Road' trips," hitchhiking across the country.

"I decided there were other things I could do with my life than making a lot of money."

When he got back, he started building. He worked with carpenters, taught himself the trade and started thinking about different ways of building, erecting a home in Marin from recycled lumber. "I was using used railroad ties things like that."

He took a detour into geodesic domes "after hearing Bucky (Buckminster) Fuller talk" and became a "counterculture spokesman for dome building." "I was Mr. Dome in those years," he says. But when he grew disillusioned with domes - they leak and the floor plans are hard to define - he came back to simple homes. They were buildings anybody could build, and they did, lots of them.

"It was this little blip of history," Kahn says.

The little where "Shelter" came from.

In the '60s and early '70s, a back-to-the-land ethic made living simply, and escaping the materialistic mainstream, a definable social statement. Back-to-the-landers fled to areas where building codes did not penetrate. "People were jumping suburbia," recalls Peter Warshall, a former editor of the Whole Earth Magazine, and a contributor to "Shelter." In the country, people were free to define their own lives and the structures in which they lived those lives. "No one was out there looking at building codes," Warshall recalls.

When Kahn bought his Bolinas lot, "a building permit was $200 and you could draw your own plans."

It was happening in lots of places. People used local materials and sometimes whimsical shapes. Ilka Hartmann, another Bolinas dweller who contributed photographs to "Shelter," recalls it as an era of "voluntary simplicity."

"People were very consciously rejecting the '50s and the sterility of the '50s," Hartmann says.

There was a pride in living and building outside the commercial whirl. Hartmann remembers salvaging lumber from a decommissioned Fort Baker in Sausalito. "I spent a whole day just pulling nails for the floor," she says. "Shelter" captured that.

"It's an expression of that time."

But times change.

Warshall would say that the homesteaders were too successful for their own good. The appeal of rural life became popular. Second homes drove up prices. Suburbia caught up.

And speculation crept in. Warshall believes homes stopped being statements — "We all thought of our houses as living organisms at that time" — and started being investments.

Homes became grander. The counters went granite and the spa tub was trimmed in marble for the master bath, not planked together out of redwood next to the organic garden.

"People got into thinking of houses as turnover houses," Warshall says.

Whatever happened, Kahn isn't happy about it. People are living in houses that are too big, too expensive and ill-tuned to their surroundings.

"Things got more expensive, and building something got much, much more expensive," he says.

All that deprives people of an essential experience.

Kahn is still living in a house that will "never" be finished. He attributes a favorite proverb to Arab origin; "When a man finishes building his house, he's dead." Kahn says he works on his house "one day a week" and assumes many of the readers who wore through multiple copies of Shelter are doing the same.

Louie Frazier is one of them.

Frazier lives on the Garcia River in Mendocino County near Point Arena, weaving furniture from willow branches and living in the house he built with inspiration from "Shelter."

Frazier met Kahn when the Bolinas publisher was working on "Home Work" and was able to show him how the book became a house. He took Kahn on a tour, pointing out features he'd borrowed from "Shelter."

"I held up the book and I said, 'See this?'"

Frazier was part of Kahn's "little blip of history." He got to his land before the building codes caught up.

"It's pretty natural to build a nest," Fraizier says. "It's only the building codes that make you think you don't know what you're doing."

Kahn would say everybody can know what they are doing. "If you don't know how to do something," he says. "Start doing it and you'll figure it out as you go along."

He senses that more people are ready to do just that. The free form expression of "Shelter" has given away to a green building environmental ethic with do-it-yourselfers experimenting with straw bale homes, "papercrete," "rasta" blocks made out of recycling plastic and other energy efficient building styles.

"I was at a solar energy conference in Hopland and it was just like the '60s," he says, beaming.

What he hopes is that people learn that rethinking their homes doesn't begin and end at Home Depot. It starts somewhere inside. By building their own home, or just changing it, people might better understand what they really need and not just what they saw in a magazine, or in their neighbor's kitchen.

It's just not do-it-yourself, he would say.

It's do-it-for-yourself.

Get on the YouTube!

It's early Thursday morning and I've just left on a month-long photo shoot for my next book, Builders of the Northwest Coast. I'm sitting in Cafe Roma in San Francisco, earphone plugged into my Mac laptop, watching film clips of Otis Redding, Muddy Waters, Bob Dylan, and Hank Williams.

YouTube.com (www.youtube.com) is the most fabulous website I've discovered in years. Film clips of all manner of things and I haven't even got past the music stuff. (And there aren't just oldies.) Lord this is so brilliant. You not only hear the music, but see the artists performing.

Otis dancing in a park with about 15 little kids, maybe 6 years old. His version of "Satisfaction." Is this good! He must have lip-synched to the music and he starts dancing for the kids and they all start dancing with him and then more kids run up and dance. Spontaneous and genuine. Rare and unique.

Otis doing "Try A Little Tenderness" backed by the Bar-Kays band in orange jumpsuits. It's wonderful to see him in person — he must be the most beautiful man I've ever seen.

You knew Otis (not Aretha) wrote "Respect," right? Here he does it with the Bar-Kays. You just can't hold still when he gets into "Got-to/got-to/have it·"

Hank Williams and Anita Carter singing a beautiful duet of "I Can't Help It (if I'm in so love with you)." Intro by June Carter:

Bob Dylan in strong voice at Frank Sinatra benefit 1995 backed by full orchestra:

1983 duet by Frank Sinatra and Bono (yes!) of "I've Got You Under My Skin":

When you find some songs you like you can bring up all the songs posted by whoever put those songs on the site. For example, James Carr has 142 songs posted.


I'll probably be doing more newsletters and blogs in the next month, when I'm nomadic and free of office biz.


P.S.: Every time I set out on a trip these days I think of my friend Godfrey writing me once: "May your trip be fraught with adventure." May it.

Return to Baja: A Love Affair Rekindled

For about 12 years (1989-2001) I'd go to Baja California every chance I got. 3-4 times a year, for stays of 4 days to 3 weeks. I fell in love with the place as soon as I got out into the blue Sea of Cortez on a ferry headed for La Paz one fine Spring day. Desert, beach, waves, plants, birds, stars at night, warm water, blue blue skies. I drove from La Paz through Todos Santos, Cabo San Lucas, and to San José del Cabo, old Spanish-style town on the southern tip of Baja.

One day I walked into a small gift shop and met 26-year old Isidro (Chílón) Amora, a native of Mexico City. We hit it off immediately. He was another explorer, he searched out fossil sites, cave paintings, remote beaches, waterfalls in magic canyons, and knew the history of the Los Cabos area, its discovery by the Spanish in the 1500s, the English pirate ships terrorizing Spanish galleons, the original inhabitants — the strong and beautiful Pericua tribe.

Over the years Chílón and I criss-crossed Baja, either in my desert converted VW Baja bug, or his rail (dune buggy). We camped on beaches and in arroyos, visited remote ranchos, old missions, found hot springs, ate in a hundred taco stands. We'd go to places where I was the only gringo. I loved that! I got inside the culture. Chílón knew the cool local restaurants, bars, taco stands, nightclubs, art galleries - places I'd never have found on my own.

It also helped that he was a local celebrity due to his 2-hour children's talk/music show on Sundays. He played "Periquín," a parrot with a kind of high, birdlike voice and talked to the kids. His trademark was a trill, like when you flutter your tongue against the rood of your mouth, Rrrrrrrrr. All Los Cabos kids listened to him. He played rock and roll and reggae, told the kids to respect their parents, kids got to talk on the air. As we'd walk down the streets, people would go Rrrrrrrrrr in passing. There was a wave of good will wherever he went, and I coasted along in his wake. I got to see Baja from a Mexican point of view, far different from the standard gringo/Baja wavelength — at their most receptive and revealing.

We launched a newspaper, El Correcaminos, that turned out great, but never got past its first issue Always in the back of my mind was a book on Baja. I shot thousands of pictures over the years, made notes, accumulated over 50 books on Baja. I was into it!

My love affair with Baja didn't end, but the exigencies of my publishing business and the need to get some books (including Homework) done, intervened, and I quit going down there about 4 years ago.

Last week I went down for 5 days, to hang out with Chílón, to witness the profound developmental changes in Los Cabos, to take another look. In my next posting I'll add a few photos and comments. On this trip I realized that, with the unique perspective I've had through Chílón, as well as my other Mexican friends Fino (local surfer dude), and Yuca ("pocho" hotelier, deal-maker), I had (have) a ton of unique material for a book. Suddenly, the Baja book, which had been on the back burner has taken on a reality. Maybe 2007. This project now makes sense, especially with the large numbers of people going to the region, there's an audience not only among North Americans, but with travelers from other countries. I'm working on my Builders of the Northwest Coast now, but this looks like the next major book. Hey it's so great to get excited about something, to have a book hove into view like this. This just clicked.

La Paz is a great town right now. It's a lot more real than Cabo San Lucas or San José del Cabo (or Todos Santos.) Sure gringos are there in force, but it's still a Mexican town.

German motorcyclist on the Baja tour on his BMW in the courtyard of El Azul Angel, great little hotel in La Paz.


Mexican wit and ingenuity. Hamburgers cooking on pickup truck converted-to-grill on the Malecón in La Paz.

Old adobe building in El Triunfo, former copper mining town 30 miles south of La Paz

Chilón and I stayed up all Saturday night, then went out to Coyote Beach at dawn on Sunday (east of Tecolote) to watch the sunrise, which was pink due to cloud cover. I jumped in the 70-degree water for a sunrise swim. On the way back to town we came upon these turkey buzzards drying their wings on cardon cacti.

Chair made of palm frond stems by Chilón's friend Alfredo. These stems are actually scrap from palm leaf palapa roofs.

Sale y vale,*

*Mexican slang for "goodbye," pronounced sah-lay vah-lay. Try it next time you're saying goodbye to a Mexican, instead of "adios." It always gets a great reaction.